Story-time

About 2 weeks ago Joy and I travelled to Mkushi and planned a 2 night stay in a guesthouse with the hopes that we would come across a few of our fellow PCVs so we could celebrate America’s Independence Day together. We had no idea what we were in for. In fact, this is my first opportunity to sit down and really digest the events of the past 2 weeks.

We spent the first night more or less alone in the guesthouse and watched a World Cup match with some easily excited Zambian football fans. The next day we hiked into town and ran into some fellow PCVs. They told us that they were going to “the Club” and that we were welcome to go with them. To put it lightly, clubs are not my scene. So I was skeptical. But it was about 11am and I assumed that it would be harmless enough at that time of day, plus we wanted to spend the 4th with our friends. We hopped in the truck with about 8 volunteers and took off. We left town and started off down the tarmac. I was a bit confused because there really isn’t much of anything outside of the town center – or so I thought. After about an hour drive on mostly well maintained dirt roads we turned into a driveway of sorts with an open gate. As the road wound and turned I looked out my window and saw what looked an awful lot like a tee-box…and then a flag…and a green. I quickly put 2 and 2 together and laughed out loud, but I still didn’t really believe it. Then, sure enough, came the inevitable proof; a sign that read “Mkushi Country Club”.

Say what?!? It turns out that we had driven into the “farm block” where the large commercial farms run by white Africans are – it’s an interesting place with interesting people, but stories will wait for another time. We pulled into the “parking lot” or field and I hadn’t seen so many pickup trucks since the last time I went to the Northwest Michigan Fair (“Goin ta tha fair. Goin’ ta tha fair. Goin’ ta tha Northwest Michigan Fair”). There were several tents set up for the “First Annual ‘M’ Fest”. We walked over to check things out. People under the tents were selling cakes, cookies, honey, grilled sausage, grilled chicken, and the best thing of all…CHEESE! The tents were set up in a crescent around a quarter of a cricket field and there were cricket matches going on all day. There was a DJ and country music. I was mostly in shock for the first hour or so. Who were these strange people? What was this strange place? Why do horses wear shoes? Are there any horse socks? Is anybody listening to me? But then Joy gave me a bite of her carrot cake that she bought for 5pin ($1) and my concerns were gone. I spent most of the day eating delicious food and trying to figure out cricket with a few friends. It was obviously an amateur tournament and everyone was playing for fun, but we couldn’t help but talk about how we would go “big fly” every single pitch if we were playing. Cricket is a cool game and it provided some background entertainment. After a few hours we got word that Prince Harry’s girlfriend, Chelsy, was in attendance. Joy had seen her picture in a recent People magazine that she received in the mail and sure enough she spotted her. Random, I know. Don’t ask how, don’t ask why, but she was there.

Just before dusk a “world renowned” violinist came to perform. She was maybe about 18 and I’m sure was a good violinist, but she was more of a performer. She played classic rock songs like ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’ – which was cheesy, but awesome – and was very… let’s say theatrical. Have you ever seen anyone try to dance while playing the violin? Well, I’m here to say that it’s really uncomfortable. More like spasmodic jerking than dancing because she had to maintain proper form with her upper body and her head always had to be fixed to her left shoulder. It was more entertaining than I could have imagined.

When she finished it was dark and we heard there were going to be fireworks. AWESOME!!!! Try to imagine our excitement. There we were…in the middle of Africa on America’s Independence Day. We had only hoped to see other Americans and now we had enjoyed a great day of western music and food with 10 or so PCVs and there were going to be FIREWORKS!!! Unreal. I grabbed a steak burger and settled in on a square bale of hay to watch the show. None of us expected much, just a few large roman candles and couple flares and I would have been impressed. But the show went on for a legitimate 15 minutes of spectacular explosions. People were talking and moving about, but our little huddle of Americans was silent and still. It was probably one of the best firework displays that I’ve ever seen and certainly the best venue.

That night we (about 8 PCVs) stayed with a miner from South Africa. We arrived late and went quickly to bed. The next morning I woke early and everyone was still sleeping. Leaning against the wall in a corner of the room I saw a fishing pole. No way, right? There was a small box of lures on the floor beside it. I grabbed them both and walked outside. I saw a beautiful dam and lake from the front porch. I had heard that people fished here, but I didn’t think it would be this easy. The morning was perfect. Cold and still. A fog rose over the lake. I picked a rapala countdown crankbait out of the box and tied it to the end of braided line. I took a deep breathe and thought to myself, “you will never forget this cast”. I opened the bail, pinched the line against the rod with my right index finger, reached back and threw the lure sailing towards the dam. I didn’t throw hard, but the lure flew effortlessly through the air. What should have been peaceful grace turned to chaotic panic as I watched the lure sail over the wall of the dam. In one quick motion I closed the bail and jerked the line back. The lure came tumbling over from the other side of the wall. Crisis averted. It wouldn’t be a Joey Goeb fishing adventure without some bone-headed move. I could have stood there for days just casting and never catching anything. But I felt my lure pull in the water. I reacted and set the hook. FISH ON!!! I reeled in what looked like the African equivalent of the large mouth bass. I proceeded to catch 4 fish that morning. The biggest one was 20+ inches and about 6lbs. Later that day I went out in a small bath tub of a boat with two other guys and caught two fish that I kept for dinner (picture). On the lake I saw three 5ft+ long water monitors and a huge fish eagle. It was a gorgeous day. I swam in the cold water and explored the dam (picture 2). We spent another night and left for home early the next morning.

Since then our lives have been nothing but busy and our bikes have been put to good use. Work has really picked up for both of us. Joy has been working with teachers, visiting the neighboring schools (biked over 130km in 5 days) and starting a counseling program all while monitoring the school library she started. I have been busy visiting farmers and attending agricultural meetings. This week I went to Mkushi for a 3-day training session with Conservation Farming. Now it is partly my responsibility to follow up with the farmers and make sure that they put the conservation tillage techniques to use before the rains come in November. The regional director of CF and his wife put me up for three nights and spoiled me with hot showers, morning tea, and butter.

We have already started to celebrate Joy’s birthweek (it’s like a birthday, but for a whole week – you gotta try it). I cleared a spot in our back yard and set up our hammock for us to rest in and I’m in the process of perfecting my bush-shower so she can take a hot shower on her birthday. We have enjoyed grilled cheese sandwiches (bread from Mkushi, cheese from the Country Club, butter from my training visit hosts), steak!, and scrambled eggs with toast.



Village Breaking News – We just received word from our neighbors that an ‘escaped elephant’ (escaped from a game park?) is loose in our district and is travelling 60 km a day. Don’t worry though it’s not coming our way…yet. – and it may or may not actually exist.

Now to respond to blog-comment requests, here are a few things that we could use from America-land…

- Any American snacks and sweets. We could give you a list of our favorites, but that takes the surprise and excitement out of it, so we’ll take anything. (Joy wants me to add that “chocolate does fine in the mail” – wink…wink.)

- Crayons, pencils, and good, reliable pens.

- Hot drink stuff (coffee, hot chocolate packs, tea, etc.)

- Instant cheese.

- Sunscreen. SPF 50 and above - my German nose will thank you.

- Mixed CDs…again the surprise is the best part, but please no Celine Dion we hear her more than we’d like because Zambians LOVE her.

- Dried fruit.

- Bandanas…we use them for everything.

- Anything with a little personal flair from the sender.

These are just some ideas. We greatly appreciate any and all mail that we receive here.