Go(eb)ing Into the Bush: The Olsens and the Goebs Do Tanzania

We recently returned from an exciting holiday in Tanzania with our friends Eric and Paul Olsen. For many months, Joey and I had been planning on making the ultimate hike up Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa. It worked out well that Eric and Paul could join us. On October 4th (Joey’s birthday), we boarded a train in Kapiri, Zambia and spent the next 55 hours slowly chugging along to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. The train was an adventure in itself! We all shared a small, first-class cabin on the old rickety train. The quarters were tight, but we managed to get through it by looking out the window, enjoying a cold soda now and then, playing cards, and reading. It really was a beautiful way to see Zambia and Tanzania. We arrived at midnight, October 6th, and met our Mount Kilimanjaro guide, Victor. We spent the night at a small lodge in Dar es Salaam and woke the next morning at 4:30 in order to catch the 5:30 bus to Arusha. Of course, we did not know about the one hour time change, so after a frantic wake up call from our guide telling us we were late, we ran out the door and barely made the bus.

After arriving in Arusha, a ten hour bus ride later, we had the evening to walk around and explore. We ate delicious street food, learned to greet in Swahili (Jambo! = Hello), and Joey and I enjoyed small cups of cowboy coffee for less than $0.06 a cup. How we wish Zambia had a coffee culture!

The following morning, October 8th, we started our climb! We drove 2 hours to the park entrance for the Machame Route, near the city of Moshi. We spent a few hours sitting around waiting to pay park fees and getting our gear sorted out. It was a bit hectic, but we managed to start the 4 hour hiking day around 1:00pm. The first day of hiking was through beautiful rainforest. Of course that meant rain, but we were all prepared with pack covers, raincoats, and rainpants. We did not, however, anticipate rain for the whole rest of the trip. The next 4 days brought rain, sleet and snow while we hiked through many different climates and slowly made our way up the mountain. Although the weather was poor, we enjoyed the landscape around us as well as soaking in the “Kili culture.” For each one of us, there were 2.5 porters carrying our food, tents, and extra supplies. It was amazing to watch these porters pass you with a pack on their back and another huge tarp full of supplies on their head. We also spent each night at big camps with over 400 people. It was pretty amazing. The last night, summit night, we left camp at midnight and hiked 7.5 hours to Uhuru Peak, reaching 5,895m. Although it was cloudy and snowing, it was a full moon and at one point I caught a glimpse of the full moon just over the peak. It was a breath-taking site. We then hiked back down to camp through 3 inches of snow and arrived at 10:30am. We had a short rest, ate a small lunch, and continued to climb down 3 more hours to our last camp. However, the rains were heavy all day, and by the time we had reached our last camp there was not a dry spot to be found on anything or anyone. We rallied together and decided to keep climbing down instead of spending another night on the mountain. After another 3.5 hours, we had reached the base of the mountain. What a day! That night, October 12th, the four of us slept at lodge in Moshi and enjoyed pizza and ice-cream for dinner. Mount Kilimanjaro had been a challenge, but we had all made it back down safely. It was a wonderful adventure, and each one of us took away our own unique experience.

With no delay, we jumped on a bus back to Dar es Salaam on October 13th and continued our travels to the island of Zanzibar the following morning, October 14th. After a pleasant 2 hour ferry ride, we stepped onto the dock and felt sunshine! It was a beautiful day. We checked in to our hotel, just 300 meters from the dock, and spent the afternoon walking around Stone Town. That night, we joined several other tourists for “Night Market.” This is where the local fishermen come and make seafood kabobs for sale. It is a magnificent site with over 20 stations all selling local seafood illuminated by kerosene lanterns along the shore of the Indian Ocean.

On October 15th, we got on a small bus and drove 1.5 hours north to Kendwa, Zanzibar. We stayed at a popular place for travellers, called Sunset Bungalows. The next 3 days were spent swimming in the blue, warm ocean waters, snorkeling around the local reef, and even some local fishing. It was truly paradise.

Finally the time had come to return to Zambia, which we were all happy to do! Vacation had been incredible, but it was time to go home. We boarded the train back to Zambia on October 18th, and arrived in Mkushi on the 20th. We spent 2 nights showing Eric and Paul our closest “city” and then said goodbye to Eric. Joey, Paul, and I returned to our village on October 22nd and it was back to work.

It was a trip of a lifetime. I feel grateful we had the opportunity and ability to take time off to climb one of the seven summits and relax in one of the world’s most beautiful beaches, while at the same time enjoying the company of 2 dear friends from home.

Now that our batteries are recharged, the next month will be full of work in the village. We had our first big rain storm on October 28th, which means it is almost time to start planting in the fields. Soon all of Zambia will be out working in their fields. Joey held a training for his 8 lead farmers this week about how to properly apply herbicide to your field as well as how to start a musangu tree nursery (nature’s fertilizer if grown in your field). Eric, Paul, and Joey have also spent many hours out in Joey’s field digging basins for this year’s crop of maize, groundnuts, and soybeans. I am finishing up a long-term project of putting in new shelves at the library as well as taking inventory and labeling each book. I have also been working hard on school clubs, including our girls’ club (today we are celebrating by preparing small skits and poems about what we have learned as well as a soccer match) and an HIV/AIDS club teaching pupils basic information about the virus as well as how to make good life choices to stay healthy.

Happy Halloween to everyone! I received some candy corn in a package which I will be sharing with my pupils this week!

Waiting to board our train in the Kapiri train station

The view from our train window going through Zambia

The three boys playing "ball" on the beach in Zanzibar, Tanzania

Sunset over Kendwa beach (located in the northern part of the island)

Breakfast in the "mess tent" on Mount Kilimanjaro

Joey and Paul with Mount Kilimanjaro. (If you look closely, you can see Joey is checking the Bears vs. Lions Monday night football score while Paul eagerly awaits the results.)